Well now, I have told you about the tiny airplane seats, the fantastic Jollibee experience my first day in and the unbelievably warm welcome that we got from every single member of the family! (And this should show just how warm this welcome was... Precious Ann even gave a nice hello! 8o I mean... how many three year olds are even mediocre greeters at 2am???)

Now I should tell you about my take on transportation in the phils. My very first experience with traffic was in a taxi in Cebu City. I wish that I had learned some fundamental bisayan phrases that are exceedingly appropriate for, generally, every traffic experience. They include:

1. Too fast! TOO FAST!
2. Slow down!
3. I don't WANT to DIE!
4. Child... Child! CHILD!!! (Appropriate substitutions are woman, man, wall/bridge/barricade, car and dog.)

I really can't say that I was too terribly frightened in this particular ride because Marleen is a perfect distraction. I was much too busy talking, laughing and eating snacks to notice much of the traffic from my first or my second taxi rides.

In hindsight, I must admit that I was truly impressed at the the masterful driving of everyone that I rode with. I never once saw a mangled fender, or a banged out signal light. I imagine that if these cats were driving Nascar races, two things would happen. First, races would be run at least twice as fast as they are now. (Whether there was an enforced speed limit or not.)Second, there would be no accidents on the track.... ever!

After the boat ride to Leyte, my next transport experience was a motorcycle-driven pettycab. This was most memorable because of the fact that, at 260+ lbs, I can easily flatten the tires on any pettycab I try to board if there is more than 2 other people on it. Fortunately, for me, I am about as bulky as 2 1/2 of the usual patrons so overcrowding isn't usually a problem. The first one had about 4 people on it and I tried many different positions and configurations to ride the cab but we ended up waiting for one to carry Marleen and I to the house. I did take another petty cab to church after Marleen's birthday. Marleen knew that I was Catholic but she was still aparently shocked that I knew all of the responses and cues during the Mass.

[ I must say that as a sidenote, I was also taken back by the style of the churches in Leyte and possibly in other places in the phils ( I only went to 2.) They have the customary vaulted ceilings, but they have open windows. Or rather, I should say, large sections of the wall that have only ornate bars instead of glass windows. It gave this light and connection to the outside world that I have never seen in churches in the States. It was simple and elegant and functional all at once. I concede that this style of architecture is only viable in a part of the world that doesn't have extreme changes in temperature. ]

The other type transport that I had taken in the provinces was on my last full day in Leyte. Ann needed more vitamins and they all decided that I would enjoy a trip to the city with them. Naturally I leaped at the chance to drink in another adventure and I doubt anyone could have stopped me from standing under the witing shed for a bus to Bay Bay. Instead of a bus we took a van. Now, THAT is an adventure in its own right. I crammed in and this is where I decided that I needed to learn those general phrases. I had barely the time to register movement before we were barrelling down the road. At one point, I stopped gripping my own knees and tried to get definitive proof of how fast we were going with my cellphone camera but that was futile and I ended up just getting another little movie of Marleen smiling and waving. The few road signs that we passed indicated that the speed limit was 60 kph but we were going closer to 95 or 100. We sailed through school zone barricades and around hairpin turns with roughly the same cruising speed as on a straightaway. I started to lose some of the whiteness in my knuckles after a while and just resigned myself to what I would call a type of giddiness when I realized that we weren't going to crash now if whe hadn't already. If someone would have taken a picture of me, I would have proof that I can produce a smile that can rival Marleen's!

Once we got to Bay Bay I had confirmed that traffic signs are seen, nationwide, as more of a suggestion than a rule as the same behaviors in traffic occured in a provincial hub as in a metropolitan area. We (Marleen, Delsa, Ann, and I) went to eat at Jollibee and I got my first glimpse at some of the fellow foreigners that came to the phils. Now, I am pretty sure that I made my perspective on age gaps known in a pre-Hack Atttack post so I will not jump up on my soap box, but for those who missed out on my POV. Very large gaps do not sit well with me. I will never judge the motives behind an older man with a much much younger woman (or vice versa) because I just can't say that the older party loves the younger simply because they are young. In line at the Jollibee, I noticed a guy who must have been at least in his mid 70's standing rather close to a girl who had to be, at most, 17. They got there food and I got ours. I couldn't help but tell them why I though the older guy was being unreasonably selfish by seeking out an apparent teenager. After my explanation, it was as if I had opened flood gates. Every question that Delsa had been wanting to ask had taken its cue to be asked by my sharing of a personal opinion. It was hilarious because, though she proved to be the most curious of the family, she also proved to be the least likely to ask questions herself.

After eating and walking around and window shopping, we went to the pharmacy where they got vitamins for Ann and their parents while I got supplementary toiletries. and sweets ;) . Despite my insistance that they let me buy the vitamins for everyone Marleen constantly refused :( ... I wished that I could have taken care of them as much as I felt they had taken care of me... :( It is obvious how much they sacrificed to make me comfortable and yet they always seemed so happy to have me. I rarely see that kind of hospitality in the States... if ever.

After we got back from another thrilling van ride we were able to break off by ourselves and go to the beach to watch the sunset together. This was the only private sunset we got to share while in Leyte because of the frequent rain and chaperones. It was quite memorable and quite beautiful. Even as we sat there enjoying this personal moment I mentioned the first time that we went to the beach together two days before.

Accompanying us was Marian, Delsa and a friend of the family ( Can't remember her name... :o ) I had my camera then too and I came across a monkey sitting on the wall of a large house. The girls pointed out how it was tethered and then told me the monkey's name. Naturally as curious as a monkey myself, I breezed on over with my camera raised to take a picture of the monkey and was nearly wrestled to the ground by all of them who feared being screamed and yelled at by the animal, and house's owner. They explained that the man who lived in that house was from Los Angeles and he came to marry a girl from the town, but ended up being so strict and violent that the girl simply ran off and left him on his own. I was stunned! After that I started noticing the bigger houses that lined the beaches and asked them all why, if these foreigners loved the provinces and the native styles so much would they have massive houses of obviously western design. They were just as confused as I was. Later on our walk they began to tell me how happy they were for mybeing rather flexible and not being strict. Somehow they had gotten the idea that I was coming to inspect their facilities and pass judgement on them all and they were very grateful to find that I am nothing like that. We all sat on the beach and watched the sunset. ( Well, I should explain this further. Marleen and I sat together and 3 feet behind us sat the others marvelling at how we were both giggling at what seemed to be just a pile of sand in front of us. Later, all of them would marvel at how I could just plop down and build sand forts with kids I had never even met before.) They commented on the way back to the house that I have a childish quality about me... I admit it freely! :hat We saw fisherman bringing in their nets and their catches and I ooh'd and ahh'd at the fish that we saw, parrot fish, a puffer fish, crabs. Some of them I have no idea what they were but they definitely looked too beautiful to eat! The next morning Marleen and I would go back to a fisherman's house beach to by fish for dinner. I got to pick out which fish we got... Sadly, I would choose the boniest fish that live in the sea. At the house I attracted the same glances that I got every since the first day in the phils. The difference between Cebu and Leyte was that the neighbors all stopped by the house to ask Marleen, her mother or her sisters whether I was Marleen's boyfriend or not. Each time everyone hurriedly said no, until that last day... after the Grand Inquisition. We were finally open about our new relationship status the last day before returning to Cebu. Instead of nervous chuckles or silence after being explained away in english, there came gasps and astounded "Mao vah's!?!" after quiet conspiring in bisayan. (Mao vah means "really?")

Most of this installment has been about traffic, transport and my musings about foreigners. I will add more about our more lengthy stay in Cebu City, soon. Sorry for the delay between installments and for the further delay of finishing the whole story.


Linda - Never a dull moment or a bad experience in either Cebu or Leyte thanks to Marleen! She insisted on taking care of me and she did an excellent job of it. I was safe and happy all the days I was there. Honestly, though.... I have to say that is was not 'good to be back home'... In fact, my last regret is that I had to return at all. I had to fight the urge to turn back around every step of the way back home and I had to fight back tears almost the whole day of my return flight. I miss Marleen so much! You have an amazing family!

Well, I will tell my second regret and the lion's share of my stay in Cebu next time!